Jafferbhai Mansuri is known in gourmet circles as the biryani king of Bombay. No restaurateur serves better Biryani than him. But don't take my word for it. Go to his Delhi Darbar Restaurant and see for yourself. Jafferbhai has four in Bombay. The original Delhi Darbar is at Grant Road Corner on the fringes of the city's notorious red light are and in between some of the sleaziest cinema houses you will ever come across. All of Bombay's taxi drivers, and victoria wallahs, know the restauranat. They are forever taking the Arab guests of Taj and Oberoi there for dinner. The other Delhi Darbars are at Coloba, Dongri, and in suburban versova.
You may eat at anyof them, the biryani will taste the same, on that you may take my word. That's because Jafferbhai has trained all the cooks himself. They are not professionals who have passed out of catering colleges but men whose families have been in his employment for year. He takes them into his service, trains them in the art of Mughlai cooking, then gives them his secret formula works only in a Delhi Darbar Restaurant. Cooks who have left and tried to repeat his success outside have failed miserably, Jafferbhai told me somewhat gleefully.
